2010 fall winter Paris fashionable clothing week already ended, is different in January that entire journey only then 4 day-long Milan men's clothing Zhou He already confirmed that will have New York fashionable clothing week which more than 30 brands will withdraw, this Paris fashionable clothing week entire journey will be 9 days, release conference altogether over a hundred. However, in the schedule which in this official announced actually only presented the designer - - continuously five seasons which Chinese brand's name - - summer posture 0.2 originally should simultaneously appear Xie Feng who made the issue in the fashionable clothing week (the Giffen designer), because as well as obtained 2008 year Australia Merino wool to symbolize that the big prize obtained in this Paris fashionable clothing week demonstrated he will participate series Qiu Hao actually to absent. Mark who in addition, takes the first Chinese designers who enters Paris high-quality fashionable clothing week to receive the domestic and foreign media attention (`to be useless ' designer), also has not made an appearance in January's Paris high-quality fashionable clothing week.
In the recent two years, these three designer's name in is mentioned repeatedly on the numerous media, they were considered that is the Chinese designers moves toward the international symbolic character, is the Chinese designer brand successful model for painting. However, 3 person of this collective absence, let many people sum up the reason in this bring for the clothing retail trade the huge impact the economic crisis. The guess reason as if is so obvious - - the designer brand to be on the rise originally, will be situated between the high-end luxurious brand and the popular consumption brand young audiences locates will also limit its capital the accumulation degree,new born baby accessories, will be very difficult the safeguard which will have the abundant capital achievement to winter. Therefore, in front of the economic crisis, the designer brand's day is very possible most not to feel better.
Fact truly so? What under is economic crisis's designer brand experiencing? Had these two questions, reporter to interview designer brand Giffen's founder Xie Feng and Shanghai's independent designers what colorful.
Xie Feng: Under the economic crisis, is living importantly
in October, 2006, thanks frontal zone him JefenByFrankie first time to appear on Paris fashionable clothing week booth, this is also the Chinese designers first time appears officially in here. Until November's, 2008 2009 spring summer issue, Xie Feng has insisted appears by the every year two time frequency in Paris fashionable clothing week.
The decision does not participate in this March's fashionable clothing week mainly to have two reason 0.1 is the time arranges. This time fashionable clothing week started to be too late, therefore we in February's time has held a small meeting for the placement of orders in Paris in view of Giffen's customer. Another reason is because of the American customer sharp decline. After actually the end of last year's that release conference, we discovered that the American aspect the customer reduced 30%. to consider all of a sudden the American present's state of business, we forecast this time definitely also will continue to reduce. The US is the Giffen quite important overseas market. Considered these two spots the words, made the issue in Paris fashionable clothing week the significance not so to be big this year. Xie Feng says to reporter absents Paris fashionable clothing week whole story.
This economic crisis let the entire European and American retail trade be under the impact, many international clothing brands started to reduce staff, go out of business, the CHANEL Paris Office reduced staff 200 people, France's Morgan already went out of business. World most hopeful market in China,（Related Articlesbaby socks won t fall off The HOPERISE depth is favored the star becomes the idol play to assign rep）, therefore, what Giffen wants to do in this year is the development domestic market, expands the overseas market also to need to wait and see. Giffen has the sale in Japan and the US, this crisis let Japan back up nearly the 70s's economical degree, the prospect is not too optimistic; But the American market is now indefinite, if before the Austria Pama this time 800,000,000,000 rescue the city plan adds on, Bush to invest 700,000,000,000 has been able to let American economy bounce, in this market short-term will possibly show improvement after illness. The Chinese clothing brand makes the overseas market, if does not make the American market, the significance is not big. Moreover regarding the Chinese designers, becomes the European and American retail trade's mainstream is very difficult, at least on present's environment. The western clothing brand and China's shape is dissimilar, they are the collectivization operations, under a great capital group possibly has more than 20 brands, these big groups monopolized retail trade's mainstream group nearly, the Chinese designer brand have only been able in second-class, in the third-class retail sales channel to develop; Is pure looking from the design strength, China's designer standard also not necessarily can be higher than Europe's and America's designers, overseas had too has the talent designer. Therefore, regarding the Giffen this kind of China designer brand, completes the domestic market in this time is most important, under the economic crisis,kids clothing, is living is most important.
The Giffen last year's sales volume grew in the environment not good situation, straight road at the end of the year 11,12 month time only then felt retailed truly receives attacks. We thought that this spring will be worse, but up to the present, has not presented the sign which compared is old times bad. Now the domestic domestic demand only then less than 30%, the normal this digit should achieve 50-60%., if the government draws the domestic demand the policy to be effective, the Giffen development opportunities are very big. Giffen this brand already had done after all for 10 years, the consumer community and the brand had certain scale, we only need in the sale, the service, the media delivery and so in all links to do are not solidly big on the question.
He Yan: Initially the naive idea must change
In the past's two years, Shanghai presented one group of independent designers shop, from this grows because one group of independent designers also both test and do not lose the practical design style to be warmly welcomed, He Yanjiu is one .2003 years, she resigns from the company, supports oneself the gateway. Less than one year later, she has made 3 issues in an East China Normal university back door's small bar, has obtained the good echo. Afterward, she in entered on the careers open to the meritorious to open her work room, monopolized subscribes the uniform high-level, because of by financial resource then, was unable to bear ready-made clothing's production. Promotes the new style by a every year series's speed, let what accumulate the certain amount customer colorfully .2007 at the end of the year in the first shop, 7 months later has died, in still street such environment, how should promote the matter which and manage themselves is I has not done prepares to deal with fully, therefore it was defeated.
in 2008, He Yanyou on the Changle road the second shop, has had 18 square meter big shop front the rent to want every month 25,000. At that time happen to was also the time which the economic crisis started. He Yan the majority of customers are the local high-level white-collar and the life in Shanghai's European and American person. After economic crisis, foreigner's response is biggest, they no longer spent. Actually, I insisted again perhaps will make money, but has not been able to support finally, 7 months later, closed.
Frustrates very much, confused, did not know how next step should manage. After having experienced a section of ebb tide time I have thought through some matters. Initially these apparented the naive idea to probably change, a person wanted to survive gets down to be too difficult, the market question was very urgent, was not imagination free completely. Must cooperate together with others, can walk. He Yan sighs with emotion said.
Before thought that the sale on commission the way self-respect could not accept, now I also took easy, moreover not only in Shanghai's designer shop the sale on commission, I was relating Beijing, Dalian, Chengdu, Hangzhou's shop, reduced my sales pressure, was also one kind of promotion.
In addition, what colorful is discussing at present also the cooperation with the capital side, they make my brand the quantity to produce the ready-made clothing, enters the Department store to sell, I also make my design.
Can this have the limit to your design style? Reporter asked.
Discussed time can say that does not limit your design completely, for me complete freedom, but you knew, definitely is must have the concessions. But, looks like now, I did not have the better business model. Makes the clothing is not after all makes the artware, the designer is not the artist, but must return to commercial in the circle. He Yan said.
The designer does not have the fund to be very also difficult under the economic crisis the independent survival; Originally makes the export, the processing clothing enterprise must reform now, makes the brand, needs to depend upon the designer. Perhaps, this financial crisis provides an opportunity for the Chinese designers and the clothing brand. If the capital and the designer can arrive together, that can be the best result,unique baby gifts make, also only then like this, China's clothing brand only then has the possibility to arrive international comes up. However, the essential premise is the capital side thought needs to change, a clothing processing factory's factory manager will make the brand to sell thermos bottle's manager to be stronger than not necessarily, because can make clothes and sell clothes is the complete two matters. The thought is invariable, discussed that can be very difficult with designer's cooperation.
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